Market recipes for spring peas

Crystal Chiang may not be a household name, but the pastry chef at Owen & Engine (2700 N Western Ave, 773-235-2930) is responsible for the gastropub’s standout bread program and British-inspired desserts. Here, she purees fresh peas and tucks them into charming individual cakes perfect for brunch or afternoon tea.

Olive-oil cakes with spring-pea puree, carrot anglaise, fried sage and Manchego crisp

Carrot Anglaise
1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups shredded carrot
4 egg yolks
¼ cup sugar
1 tsp salt

Pea puree
1 pint spring peas
¼ cup water
¼ cup sugar

Cakes
3 eggs
2½ cups sugar
1½ cups olive oil
1½ cups whole milk
Zest of 1 lemon
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp kosher salt

Fried sage
20 sage leaves
8 oz canola oil
Salt

Manchego crisp
6 oz Manchego

1. Make the carrot anglaise: Combine the milk, cream and carrot together in a small pot and bring it to a boil. Cover the pot with plastic wrap and let the carrot steep in the liquids for at least 30 minutes. Strain out the carrot and return the milk mixture to the stove to bring it to a boil a second time. While waiting for the milk mixture to boil, whisk the yolks, sugar and salt together in a bowl. Set up an ice bath by placing a chinois over a bain marie in a bowl. Fill the bowl with ice. When the milk mixture comes to a boil, pour about half of it over the yolk mixture and return the pot to the stove. Over medium-high heat, constantly whisk the anglaise until it evenly coats the back of a wooden spoon (nappe) or it reaches 185 degrees F/85 degrees C. Strain the anglaise through the chinois, then pour cold water into the ice bath. Stir the anglaise occasionally until it reaches room temperature. Chill the anglaise until ready to serve (preferably overnight).

2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Make the pea puree: Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, and blanch the spring peas in the water until tender (about three minutes), then shock the peas in an ice-water bath. Strain the peas, and place them in a blender. Combine the water and sugar in a small pot, and bring it just to a boil to make a simple syrup. Pour just enough simple syrup into the blender with the peas to make a smooth puree (there most likely will be leftover syrup). Set aside.

3. Make the olive-oil cakes: Whisk the eggs and sugar together until well combined. Add the olive oil, milk and lemon zest to the egg mixture, whisking until combined. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Whisk the dry ingredients into the egg mixture until just combined. Lightly coat the cups of two large muffin pans with pan-release spray. Portion about three ounces of batter into each cup. Drop a slightly rounded tablespoon of pea puree into the center of each cake. Bake the cakes for 17–20 minutes or until golden brown and the center of the cake springs back when lightly pushed.

4. Fry the sage: Heat the canola oil to 375 degrees in a small pot. Fry the sage leaves until crisp (a few seconds). Transfer the leaves to a paper towel–lined sheet pan. Lightly season the leaves with salt.

5. Bake the crisps: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a sheet pan with a nonstick rubber mat. Thinly slice the cheese and cut into 1" x 2" rectangles. Place the cheese on the sheet pan and bake until golden brown (about eight minutes).

6. Assemble the cakes: Serve the cakes warm with the chilled carrot anglaise. Garnish each cake with a fried sage leaf and a Manchego crisp. Makes approximately 18 cakes.