Pleasant House Bakery | Restaurant review
A savory-pie shop walks the line between traditional and modern.
Individual pies filled with earthy kale and mushrooms. Fried fish alongside crisp nubs of fries, Meyer-lemon tartar sauce to spare. These were convincing dishes, assured re-creations of homey British food from Art Jackson (formerly the chef of Bijan’s Bistro) and his wife, Chelsea Kalberloh Jackson, who operate this small Bridgeport shop. But the taste I remember most vividly from my Friday-night meal at Pleasant House Bakery is a stray piece of arugula. Was it from the Bacon Betty, a sandwich special that proved both workmanlike and lovely, sapid housemade back bacon in the foreground? Or had it been tucked among the tender salad greens? Either way, it was bright and peppery—spicy even. Like so much of the produce here, it was grown by Jackson and Kalberloh at their small urban plots called Pleasant Farms. And it was emblematic of the way the couple have put their imprimatur on everything from the greens to the sodas (ginger ale made with fresh ginger) to the meats. At Pleasant House, the food is humble, steeped in tradition and rich with stories. As such, it couldn’t be more contemporary. 964 W 31st St (773-523-7437).