20 chefs to watch

Michael Simmons, 34
Sous chef at Lula Café (2537 N Kedzie Blvd, 773-489-9554)
Previous gigs Restaurant jobs since age 16 in his hometown of Amarillo, Texas; baker at a local Einstein Bagels and Red Hen Bread; cook at Custom House; sous chef at C-House
Inspiration “Foraging. The fact that purslane and wood sorrel grow in any spot they can find room in Chicago, the random patches of wild perilla [an herb], and the ubiquitous lamb’s quarters and dandelion greens.”
Favorite fall ingredients Trout and trout roe from Rushing Waters Fisheries in Palmyra, Wisconsin
Indispensable kitchen tool A knife—“any style, shape, provenance, make, as long as it’s motherfucking sharp”
For lunch today, I ate “Oh, man. It was this green chile and tomatillo chicken guisado with hominy and potatoes…and I piled a shitload of thinly sliced jalapeños on top and mopped it up with a corn tortilla. Tasted like home.”

Nominated by Michael Kornick (MK, DMK Burger Bar, Fish Bar)
“I eat at Lula often. [Michael] always is gracious, makes sure the food is on point and seems to demonstrate a calm, serious approach, which stays focused on the tasks at hand.”

Jan Rickerl, 36
Executive sous chef at Girl & the Goat (809 W Randolph St, 312-492-6262)
Previous gigs Line cook at Gordon, Campagnola, Trio and Grace; sous chef at Spring, Scylla and Blue Water Grill; chef-consultant at Taxim and Arami
Signature dish Slow-roasted pork. “Skin-on whole hams are good if you don’t have enough [people] to eat a whole pig, though that’s rarely a problem.”
Dream project “Supercasual American gastropub. Whole pigs, barbecue, pickles, oysters…I’d be cool with a pork truck, too, if Chicago ever makes it legal.”
Kitchen talent Resident handyman? “Whatever you call being the guy who everyone goes to if the dish machine’s smoking or the smoker’s not.”
Indispensable kitchen tool A 15,000-grit knife-sharpening stone
For lunch today, I ate Leftover Manny’s pastrami and “cheap yellow mustard” on house-baked pepper bread, watermelon agua fresca

Nominated by Chris Pandel (the Bristol, Balena)
“He is the rock behind Stephanie.”

Jesse Katzman, 29
Sous chef at Avec (615 W Randolph St, 312-377-2002)
Previous gigs The Publican, Blackbird
Signature dishes Sausages, salumi
Favorite fall dish Spaghetti squash on a crostini with saffron cream
Kitchen talent “Keeping it light when the shit’s hitting the fan.”
Kitchen weakness Black ice—“four shots espresso with iced coffee in a quart deli container. I drink too much and I get the shakes.”
Indispensable kitchen tool “Sharp-ass knives”
Dream project “A great bar with awesome food, where all my friends and family can work and hang out. That will be open for generations. Also, a salumi company.”
For lunch today, I ate A spicy Italian sub from JP Graziano and a quart of black ice

Nominated by Paul Virant (Vie, Perennial Virant)
“I’ve never worked with him, but his work is solid and he’s really passionate about charcuterie.”

Jessica Carney, 27
Sous chef at GT Fish & Oyster (531 N Wells St, 312-929-3501)
Previous gigs Sandy’s Pizza, her mom’s pizzeria in Grass Valley, California; De La Costa (“from line cook to sous chef”); line cook at Topolobampo
Signature dish Tacos. “I can’t compete with Rick Bayless, but…they can be so versatile.”
Favorite fall dish Cioppino, an Italian fish stew she enjoyed often in San Francisco. “I can’t wait to serve it here.… I can just hear the rain outside.”
Kitchen talent “Supreming citrus.” (Translation: peeling, pithing and removing the fruit’s segments from their membranes.)
Dream project “Oooh, that’s top secret. I would love to combine forces with my boyfriend, Carl Shelton at Boka. As long as I can spend time with him and bake bread, I will be a happy girl.”

Nominated by Bill Kim (Urbanbelly, Belly Shack)
“She’s driven. She sets goals for herself and pursues accomplishing them. The [caliber of] chefs she’s worked for helps give you a perspective on how talented she is.”

Johnny Anderes, 31
Chef at Telegraph (2601 N Milwaukee Ave, 773-292-9463)
Previous gigs Several bar and grills in northeastern Wisconsin; sous chef at Ciola’s in Texas, Charlie’s on Leavitt, Avec
Favorite fall ingredient Chanterelle mushrooms. “We caramelize them and serve them with a poached egg, pearl barley and a tomato veal stock.”
Kitchen talent “Being positive, calm—most of the time—and clean.”
Kitchen weakness Butchering chickens. “My sous chef, Dave Ford, is twice as fast as I am, clocking in at 22 minutes per bird.”
Indispensable kitchen tool Smoker
Dream project “I’m living and working on a dream project right now—no time for other dreams!”

Nominated by Paul Kahan (Blackbird, Avec, the Publican, Big Star)
“John, John the phenomenon. Cool kid with great ideas and strong technique à la [Avec chef de cuisine Koren] Grieveson. Should be an important player in Chicago food for a long time.”

Rachel Slivicki, 25
Assistant pastry chef at HotChocolate (1747 N Damen Ave, 773-489-1747)
Previous gig Line cook at Cyrano’s Bistrot
On the transition to pastry “I staged with HotChocolate’s former chef, Mark Steuer. A couple hours into the evening, Mindy Segal approached me and asked if I had ever considered a position in pastry. I was young, naive and had little-to-no pastry experience. So I said, ‘Why not?’ ”
Favorite fall ingredient Apple cider. “Some of the single-varietal ciders have such specific flavors.”
Indispensable kitchen tool “Long-handled iced tea spoons! They are great for quenelling, tasting, saucing plates.… And they are really cute.”

Nominated by Bill Kim
“Every time I see her she is always at work early, working very hard and diligently. That is something you cannot teach a person.”

Erin Mooney, 33
Executive pastry chef at Custom House Hospitality Group (500 S Dearborn St, 312-523-0200)
Previous gigs Trio under Shawn McClain, pastries at Spring, savory line at HotChocolate
Favorite fall ingredient “I cannot narrow this down. Quince, butternut squash, maple syrup, warm spices, pears.”
Kitchen weakness Burning her forearms. “It has gotten better, but when I was younger, I got some concerned looks from a lot of people.”
Indispensable kitchen tool “My wooden spoon that I have managed to hold on to for about 13 years. I cringe when I see cooks stirring ganache or making ice cream with a metal spoon.”

Nominated by Shawn McClain (Green Zebra)
“I was always impressed with her natural style and dedication.… I’m proud to have had the experience working side-by-side with her.”

Cam Waron, 29
Sous chef at Belly Shack (1912 N Western Ave, 773-252-1414)
Previous gigs Busboy at a gourmet buffet in Washington, Illinois; chef at local catering company Finesse Cuisine; Le Lan (“I got to work all of the stations and eventually became sous chef.”)
Signature dish A riff on the horseshoe sandwich—fried chicken on cheesy corn bread, with spiced fries and chorizo gravy on top
Favorite fall ingredient Giardiniera
Kitchen talent “My kitchen Spanish. One day my manager told me to tell the Ecuadorian dishwasher that the exterminator was coming. In Spanish, I told him that the man with the bookbag of death would be here in five minutes.… I’ve never seen someone look so confused and horrified at the same time.”
Indispensable kitchen tool Chinese cleaver
Dream project “My own Brew & View spot where we have local beer, housemade popcorn and snacks…and a lot of kung fu and ’80s movies.”

Nominated by Jason Hammel
“He kills it. I can tell he’s really excited about being there, and he exudes this positive, I’m-in-the-best-place-I’ve-ever-been feeling.”