Brunch review: Owen & Engine

Photo: Erica Gannett

Owen & Engine British brunch is all business, rooted in meat and potatoes and intended to both abolish a previous night of ales and set things right for the session to come. Owen & Engine takes this responsibility seriously, delivering a full English “fry up” with finesse, the egg properly runny, the tomato blistered, the beans bacony and the crispy-edged blood sausage as deep and rich as its name suggests. Coupled with a breakfast stout, you’re looking at brawny perfection. Those a little less hearty and hale can opt for the more genteel crumpets or scones, both made in-house, the latter served with clotted cream and just about as crumbly and buttery as they come. Brunch served 11am–3pm (Sat, Sun only). 2700 N Western Ave (773-235-2930). Bus: 49, 76. Average main course: $14.—Heather Shouse