Six new breakfast spots | Restaurant reviews
Breakfast is the new dinner. If you didn't know that, time to wake up.
Finally, there’s the new Bleeding Heart Bakery (1916 W Chicago Ave, 773-904-1414), a place I hesitate to address but must. The punk-rock diner succeeds in its mission aesthetically (It’s punky! And dinerish!). But I doubt the folks who run Bleeding Heart meant for their food to be quite as true to diner food as it is. I’ll start with the good: A squash egg skillet was seasoned perfectly, peppery bites of squash mingling surprisingly well with over-easy eggs. But the “crispy” cinnamon French toast was the opposite of crispy: a plate of wet, soppy bread. The country Benedict (eggs, ham, gravy on biscuits) arrived sans-biscuit and with ham that was thick and tough. And the bakery case near the register, the one full of doughnuts, should be avoided at all cost. Eating any of these doughnuts is like chewing on dried rubber cement, and you don’t have time for that. Not when you’ve got the whole day ahead of you. Not when there are so many other breakfasts out there calling your name.