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Three takes on coconut milk
How chefs are using the trendy ingredient.
By Lisa Shames
Published: November 15, 2012
403.rb.eo.threeway
Chef Bill Kim had just one reason for using coconut milk in bellyQ’s side dish of creamy spinach with dried shrimp and Chinese sausage ($6): He’s lactose intolerant. “I want to taste all my food, so we try to do away with a lot of dairy,” he says. The spinach is first braised with garlic before getting hit with coconut milk; it’s served with cold quinoa that’s been spiked with lemongrass, fish sauce and lime juice. The popularity of the dish—the restaurant goes through seven cases of spinach a day—means diners will also find it served alongside seared salmon on the new lunch menu. 1400 W Randolph St (312-563-1010).
Paul Fehribach of Big Jones based his red kuri squash dish ($16) on an old curry recipe from Charleston, South Carolina, packing it with confit’d cauliflower, baby carrots, roasted apples and oyster mushrooms. But one tweak he made was to swap out the cream for coconut milk in the gravylike sauce. “It adds fat for a luxurious mouthfeel and also adds a nice flavor,” says Fehribach of the sauce, which gets poured tableside. Candied peanuts add crunch; rice cakes underneath act as a sponge for all that gravy. 5347 N Clark St (773-275-5725).
John Manion’s no stranger to coconut milk, having spent some time in Brazil where it’s prevalent in a lot of dishes. At La Sirena Clandestina, he uses the milk in black-eyed pea fritters, sea bass, moqueca seafood stew and coconut-and-cilantro risotto ($7). Manion cooks the risotto in vegetable broth before combining it with a puree of cilantro, parsley, green onions, garlic and coconut milk, which adds a “depth and creaminess,” he says. Vegetarians looking for an entrée-size dish can ask for some fresh vegetables to be added to it. 954 W Fulton Mkt (312-226-5300).
Chef Bill Kim had just one reason for using coconut milk in bellyQ’s side dish of creamy spinach with dried shrimp and Chinese sausage ($6): He’s lactose intolerant. “I want to taste all my food, so we try to do away with a lot of dairy,” he says. The spinach is first braised with garlic before getting hit with coconut milk; it’s served with cold quinoa that’s been spiked with lemongrass, fish sauce and lime juice. The popularity of the dish—the restaurant goes through seven cases of spinach a day—means diners will also find it served alongside seared salmon on the new lunch menu. 1400 W Randolph St (312-563-1010).
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