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Morgan: The chef’s stop

The newest El stop is a mecca for celebrity chef worship.

By Carly Fisher
Published: January 24, 2013

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Roasted fig, yuba, maple leaf dessert at Next Morgan Green line stop
Next off the Morgan Green line stop
  • 413.ac.ft.el.green.morgan.LaSirenaCocktail2xSS.jpg

    La Sirena Clandestina

    Photo: Jason Little413.ac.ft.el.green.morgan.LaSirenaCocktail2xSS.jpg413.ac.ft.el.green.morgan.LaSirenaCocktail2xSS.jpg160140711
  • 413.ac.ft.el.green.morgan.LaSirenaFoodxSS.jpg

    La Sirena Clandestina

    Photo: Jason Little413.ac.ft.el.green.morgan.LaSirenaFoodxSS.jpg413.ac.ft.el.green.morgan.LaSirenaFoodxSS.jpg160140762
  • Roasted fig, yuba, maple leaf dessert at Next Morgan Green line stop

    Next

    Photo: Martha Williams413.ac.ft.el.green.morgan.NextFood1xSS.jpgRoasted fig, yuba, maple leaf dessert at Next Morgan Green line stop160140813
  • Next off the Morgan Green line stop

    Next

    Photo: Martha Williams413.ac.ft.el.green.morgan.NextInterior1xSS.jpgNext off the Morgan Green line stop160140864

La Sirena Clandestina

Photo: Jason Little

A mecca for celebrity chef worship, this stop, added in May 2012, offers optimal dinner hopping between the Fulton Market and Randolph Street restaurant rows. Walk to Next (953 W Fulton Mkt) and the Aviary (955 W Fulton Mkt), Grant Achatz’s ticketed, concept-shifting restaurant and adjoining bar, or Moto (945 W Fulton Mkt, 312-491-0058), Homaro Cantu’s flagship restaurant. Part kitchen, part laboratory, it has been the testing zone for culinary innovation and patents for nearly a decade—and may be the most fun white-tablecloth experience in Chicago. Under the stop, rising stars Mark and Liz Mendez are the power couple behind Vera (1023 W Lake St, 312-243-9770), a chef-driven wine bar. Mark mans the kitchen, which pumps out mind-blowing Latin dishes such as duck paella with chorizo, chestnuts and roasted shallots, while Liz runs the wine list and is dead set on getting Chicagoans hooked on sherry. And former Más chef John Manion makes his return with La Sirena Clandestina (954 W Fulton Mkt, 312-226-5300), his coastal Latin American restaurant that draws heavily on Manion’s time spent in Brazil—and doesn’t take reservations. Space is precious and fills up quickly, particularly at the bar that’s open until 2am.

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