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Western: The BYOB stop

The Western Blue Line is more than a fly-over stop between Damen and Logan Square.

By Julia Kramer
Published: January 24, 2013

413.rb.ft.blue.western
Boricua at Belly Shack off the Western Blue line
Blakened Tilapia at Belly Shack off the Western Blue line
Chilapan restaurant off the Western Blue line
Camarones Verdes at Chilapan restaurant off the Western Blue line
Irazu restaurant off the Western Blue line
A Chifrijo appetizer at Irazu restaurant off the Western Blue line
Silom 12 restaurant off the Western Blue line stop
Tuna Tataki at Silom 12
Saag paneer scramble at Township off the California Blue line
  • Boricua at Belly Shack off the Western Blue line

    Belly Shack

    Photo: Martha Williams413.ac.ft.el.blue.BellyShack1xSS.jpgBoricua at Belly Shack off the Western Blue line160139911
  • Blakened Tilapia at Belly Shack off the Western Blue line

    Belly Shack

    Photo: Martha Williams413.ac.ft.el.blue.BellyShack2xSS.jpgBlakened Tilapia at Belly Shack off the Western Blue line160139962
  • Chilapan restaurant off the Western Blue line

    Chilapan

    Photo: Allison Williams413.ac.ft.el.blue.chilapan1xSS.jpgChilapan restaurant off the Western Blue line160140063
  • Camarones Verdes at Chilapan restaurant off the Western Blue line

    Chilapan

    Photo: Allison Williams413.ac.ft.el.blue.chilapan3xSS.jpgCamarones Verdes at Chilapan restaurant off the Western Blue line160140114
  • Irazu restaurant off the Western Blue line

    Irazu

    Photo: Allison Williams413.ac.ft.el.blue.irazu1xSS.jpgIrazu restaurant off the Western Blue line160140165
  • A Chifrijo appetizer at Irazu restaurant off the Western Blue line

    Irazu

    Photo: Allison Williams413.ac.ft.el.blue.irazu4xSS.jpgA Chifrijo appetizer at Irazu restaurant off the Western Blue line160140216
  • Silom 12 restaurant off the Western Blue line stop

    Silom 12

    Photo: Allison Williams413.ac.ft.el.blue.shilom3xSS.jpgSilom 12 restaurant off the Western Blue line stop160140267
  • Tuna Tataki at Silom 12

    Silom 12

    Photo: Martha Williams413.ac.ft.el.blue.shilomxSS.jpgTuna Tataki at Silom 12160140368
  • Saag paneer scramble at Township off the California Blue line

    Township

    Photo: Martha Williams413.ac.ft.el.blue.california.township1xSS.jpgSaag paneer scramble at Township off the California Blue line160140019

Belly Shack

Photo: Martha Williams

At Damen, you might get puked on. At Logan, the best restaurants have a long wait. But those aren’t the only reasons to opt for the Western stop: On the border of Bucktown and Logan Square, this is a nexus of great BYOB restaurants. Directly underneath the El tracks lies Bill Kim’s Belly Shack (1912 N Western Ave, 773-252-1414). Is it as glitzy as bellyQ or as soulful as Urbanbelly, Kim’s two other restaurants? No. But it’s never as busy as those places, either, which means it’s the perfect place to warm up with a bowl of hot-and-sour soup or have a light dinner of shrimp-and-somen-noodle salad.

Follow the El tracks a block northwest to Chilapan (2459 W Armitage Ave, 773-697-4597), where fresh guacamole (made to order at whatever heat level you request) gets any meal off to a good start. Entrées, like the sizzling Volcano (chicken, steak or shrimp with Chihuahua cheese, onions and salsa) are basic and a little pricey but good for sharing. On the opposite side of the tracks lies Irazú (1865 N Milwaukee Ave, 773-252-5687). Throngs line the sidewalks outside this beachy Costa Rican spot in summer waiting for a table on the patio. Is it missing the point to eat at Irazú inside, in winter? Or is it actually genius, since everyone else forgets this place exists? We’re going with the latter, because you cannot beat (a) the extensive vegetarian options, (b) the prices (most sandwiches are $5 or less) and (c) the oatmeal shake—refreshing enough for summer, yet substantial enough for winter. Just across the street is Silom 12 (1846–48 N Milwaukee Ave, 773-489-1212). It’s not the most adventurous Thai restaurant in Chicago, but it puts out reliable renditions of dishes both familiar (panang noodles, laht nar) and surprising (tender fried pork shank).

A cluster of BYOB restaurants is nothing, however, without a great wine store nearby. The Western stop has not just any liquor store but Red & White Wines (1861 N Milwaukee Ave, 773-486-4769), one of the best wine shops in Chicago. The bottles aren’t cheap, but trust whatever the extremely knowledgeable staff (usually one of the owners) recommends and you’ll end up with something interesting, unique and well-suited to Costa Rican, Thai, Mexican or whatever food might be in store. If you can effectively cross a street, you’re set for the night.

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