Three way | Herbal ice cream
What local chefs are doing with herbal ice cream
Wicker Park’s People Lounge recently appointed a new chef, and he’s upped the ante on the dessert list, first by making all ice creams in-house. Matt Burger uses dried California bay leaves in an aromatic ice cream and then scoops it onto a slice of pastel de manzana, a moist, slightly spiced apple cake garnished with walnut-cardamom brittle and brandy caramel. 1560 N Milwaukee Ave (773-227-9339).
If the name Old Town Brasserie doesn’t tip you off to this new spot’s Francophile personality, chef Roland Liccioni’s love of thyme should. Liccioni blends France’s favorite herb into a pungent, minty and slightly citrusy ice cream and then pairs each scoop with moelleux au chocolate, the classic gooey Valrhona chocolate tart. 1209 N Wells St (312-943-3000).
At Le Lan, chef Bill Kim puts his Pan-Asian inspirations into a pot and stirs, usually coming up with some delicious and interesting results. His latest creation is Thai basil ice cream, which he drops into a bowl of chilled honeydew-lime broth. A shortbread cookie made with toasted nori (dried seaweed) adds just enough salty funk to bring it all together. Served at lunch only. 749 N Clark St (312-280-9100).