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La Cocina de Frida

Heather Shouse
Published: January 17, 2008
Photo: Martha Williams

Work of art Sisters Marlene and Lydia Benitez have a thing for Frida Kahlo, maybe because the women have a lot in common. “We’re Mexican and very proud of that heritage,” Marlene says. “And Frida was a great cook, loved to entertain and always went out of her way to make guests feel so incredibly special. So do we, so we’re going to create that experience here.” The “here” is La Cocina de Frida, the sisters’ new Andersonville restaurant that’s decked out in Kahlo-esque colors of hot pink, orange and chocolate-brown and features colorful art, including a mural of the famed Mexican artist. The enchiladas are made “my grandmother’s way,” according to Marlene, which means pork-filled and smothered in green chile sauce or plantain with red mole, each with a sprinkling of queso anejo. And the chile rellenos are roasted and stuffed with a mixture of ground beef and pork, which, Marlene says “is the exact way Frida would serve hers.” 5403 N Clark St at Balmoral Ave (773-271-1907).

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