Once I broke into a private pool at three in the morning and went swimming with a group of friends. Having dinner at Jam feels something like that. This is as inventive a breakfast restaurant as I’ve ever known, and that’s exactly how I’ve thought of it: as a breakfast restaurant. So although I knew Jam had started dinner service, showing up there after work, I felt less as if I were going to a restaurant and more as if I were participating in something illicit, attending a party I wasn’t invited to. And what a party it is: A $25 four-course prix-fixe begot foie-gras-filled tortellini, best eaten in a single bite so you can savor each crunchy speckle of bacon dotted on top. Want a filet? À la carte, there is beef tenderloin, aggressively seasoned, perfectly medium-rare. Each plate is more beautiful than the last, an axiom best demonstrated by that final course, dessert: On a recent night it was thin slices of olive-oil cake, both hefty and delicate. Jeffrey Mauro’s food is energetic, colorful and something most certainly worth sounding an alarm. 937 N Damen Ave, 773-489-0302.