Billy Lawless and Catherine Gilmore-Lawless would love it if we all saw their new restaurant through the lens of its inspiration, architect Louis Henri Sullivan. But though there are plenty of details here that are an homage to the Chicago hero—everything from the restaurant’s logo to the fabric of the chairs—there’s way too much food and wine stuff happening to concentrate on a famous dead guy. Stuff like the wine program, which lists only biodynamic wines. Or the cocktail program, half of which is made up of drinks with grape-based spirits. Or chef Dirk Flanigan’s French-American menu, which is populated by dishes both classic (bouillabaisse) and contemporary (Swan Creek rabbit consommé with rabbit agnolotti). With all this going on, there’s only one situation we can imagine when we’d be at the restaurant thinking about Sullivan: Outside the 72-seat space, looking at the building, waiting to get in. 18 S Michigan Ave, 312-578-0763.