Las Palmas

For vegetarians and vegans, chef Armando Gonzalez—who took over at Las Palmas during the summer—should be a hero. Not only does the guy have a rare vegan entrée permanently on his menu (the description, “Made to order by Chef,” indicates that the dude’s not just throwing salsa on a Tofu Pup), but the most delicious item among his fall offerings is the vegetarian Enchayotadas. That dish, corn tortillas stuffed with softened vegetables (pictured), has a jalapeño-tomatilla salsa that is excruciatingly habit-forming. Long after the vegetables are gone, you’ll find yourself scraping the plate with anything you can find: tortillas, a spoon, your companion’s finger. Other dishes have similar effects: Thin slices of duck are paired with an intense prickly-pear-and-habanero sauce; lamb shank, so nicely cooked it pulls off the bone with almost no effort, is a mere vehicle for the jus on the plate. And then there’s that other sauce: The cocktail program, which was revamped around the time of Gonzalez’s arrival. It now includes tipples with touches of jalapeño or West Indian orange bitters. Nice, but stick with the margaritas, which are more poised not to overshadow the food (not that any cocktail really could). 1835 W North Ave (773-289-4991). El: Blue to Damen. Bus: 50, 72. Brunch, lunch (Sat, Sun), dinner. Average main course: $15.

• More "Tasting notes"
• More Restaurants & Bars articles