BIN 36

The recent menu revamp at this winecentric stalwart is full of trends, Thankfully, no dish here is getting by merely on street cred. Meatballs tossed in romesco are like Prozac in their ability to cause happiness. Halibut is notable mostly for the sprightly kimchi dumplings alongside it; meanwhile, the stuffed mushrooms may be the richest in town, filled with escargot and capped with bone marrow. Desserts are surprisingly good, too, but you’ll probably never taste them: When you’re faced with one of the best cheese programs in the city, it’s always wisest to end with a cheddar flight.