Bus: 9 Ashland, 65 Grand(312) 421-2000 fogonchicago.com41.890852 -87.658799 1235 W Grand Ave (at Ogden Ave) West Town, Chicago
Lunch (Mon–Fri), dinnerAverage main course: $22
Eusevio Garcia and Leo Garcia (the folks behind Canaryville’s Amelia’s) continue bending traditional Mexican cuisine at this new spot, which is equal parts epazote and red wine jus. Sometimes the restaurant nails it: Sweet and savory tamarind-glazed salmon could replace miso-glazed cod as a ubiquitous restaurant fish dish. But when execution flags, as in a whitefish "Napolean," the dishes can seem dated. Ceres' Table pastry chef Leticia Zenteno is consulting on dessert here, and her peanut butter–chocolate “terrine” is like a homemade Reese’s peanut-butter cup the size of a hockey puck. It is so unbelievably rich it hurts to eat it, but pain has never tasted so good.