Subway: Red to Grand(312) 595-0800 parisclubchicago.com41.889804 -87.630406 59 W Hubbard St (between Dearborn and Clark Sts) River North, Chicago
DinnerAverage main course: $18
Between four chefs (Tim Graham, Jean Joho, Walter Manzke and Doug Psaltis) and two owners (Lettuce Entertain You second-generation Jerrod and R.J. Melman), this bistro’s efforts at updated French fare are going in a lot of directions, from cheeky takes on croque monsieur (as "fingers") for the Hub 51 fans to traditional steak frites for diners who still think this is Brasserie Jo. We had the best time by leaving expectations at the door and diving into a frisée salad with lardons in every bite, an elegant seafood platter with shells of scallop-uni tartare, and the "coq au vin," a take on the classic that pairs a braised thigh and a roasted, crisp-skinned breast. Though the Melman brothers’ desire to make the food "accessible" sometimes goes too far, they’ve got their finger on the scene, building another restaurant with great energy and not a whimper of pretentiousness.