NoMI Kitchen

There are two NoMIs: The NoMI with the stunning view of the water tower, and the NoMI with the awkward view of the kitchen. Which one you get depends on where your table is, but don't sweat it too hard: Both NoMIs feature the same inconsistent menu, and therefore the same opportunity for either a great meal or a disappointing one. Chef Ryan LaRoche can generally be trusted with chicken (both the $75 poached and the cheaper roasted), steak tartare and tagliolini, but his food is so pared down it can barely hide even minor imperfection (such as those that we found in the mushroom salad, boring crudo or tough strip steak). Desserts follow the same pattern, but for a sure thing, go for the chocolate ice cream.