Subway: Red to Chicago(312) 202-0001 trurestaurant.com41.894522 -87.622937 676 N St. Clair St (at Huron St) Gold Coast, Chicago
Dinner (closed Sun)Average three-course prix fixe: $98
Executive Chef Anthony Martin—who stepped up as partner and executive chef here after Rick Tramonto’s departure—has set a new tone at the legendary Tru. Much of the whimsy of the Tramonto/Gand years is over; now, technique and execution are the mantras of the meal. That’s good for some dishes (soup has never been as satiny as Martin’s celeriac version) and underwhelming for others (cod is supremely flaky but otherwise forgettable). But in the rare moments when Martin’s undeniable abilities combine with a fleeting glimpse of playfulness, Tru 2013 feels just as special as Tru 2001.