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Al Dente

Al Dente
41.953357 -87.726756 3939 W Irving Park Rd (between Pulaski Rd and Springfield Ave) Old Irving Park, Chicago
Subway: Blue to Irving Park(773) 942-7771 aldentechicago.com
Dinner (closed Mon)
Average main course: $23
Javier Perez worked his way up from dishwasher at Tony Mantuano’s Tuttaposto in 1990 to sous chef at Cibo Matto in 2009. Now he’s opened his own place in Old Irving Park. He's clearly skilled technically—his lamb chops are perfectly tender; his polenta hits the sweet spot between cement and mush. But very little, if anything, is surprising on this menu, which reads like a greatest hits of Perez's past employers. If Perez has the chops to not only emulate his teachers but form his own voice as well, he has not shown that here yet. Hopefully, one day, he will.
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