Oceanique

It’s tough to keep a comfortable, laid-back vibe while serving upscale food, but this Evanston favorite does it. Chef-owner Mark Grosz didn’t bring with him the pretension of former employer Le Francais, but he did bring the skill with classic (albeit pricey) Euro dishes. Close to ten different seafood entrées are offered on any given night, and while the multi-ingredient preparations border on overwhelming, Grosz somehow manages to balance flavors while completely flipping off subtlety. Big portions mean you may not be tempted to follow the delicious savory fare with dessert.