Devon Seafood Grill

The dramatic space and choreographed service here are giveaways that this is a chain (from Houlihan’s Inc). Luckily, the food doesn’t taste as if it comes from one. Seafood is flown in daily, and the fish is full-flavored enough to stand on its own, simply grilled or pan-seared. A filet of opah gets a more elaborate treatment, crusted with macadamia and served with grilled asparagus. For the most part, the kitchen lets the food speak for itself, and it’s dignified enough that you’ll like what it has to say.