Cafeteria Marianao

Don’t go expecting tablecloths and doting waiters—this Cuban lunch counter is no-frills, and that’s just fine with the regulars who line up every morning for their eye-opening café cortado and a warm toasted sandwich. You’d think the Cubano sandwich is the required order here, but the big draw is the steak: thin slices of juice-dripping beef piled onto fresh bread, topped with griddled onions and toasted on the hot press. It’s usually standing-room only here, so grab some plantain chips and a soda and head for the parking lot if you want to wolf lunch in peace.