Lockwood

The Palmer House Hilton’s dining room has no windows, just layers of dark colors. The lights are dim, the booths are plush. It is precisely where you want to be during a snowstorm, and where you don’t want to be in the summer. Yet chef Gregory Elliott’s menu is all sunshine and herb fields: A sweet corn soup is sweet and corny. Chicken (from Slagel Family Farm) is crisp-skinned and paired with a summer bean panzanella and chorizo. And though the brownie is standard-issue, might-have-come-from-Jewel quality, that’s not Elliot’s fault: It’s Bertha Palmer’s recipe from 1893.