Mitad del Mundo

After years of restaurant hopping, chef Geno Bahena finally appears to be petering out. Unfortunately, so is his food. At this dark and dank spot, the enchiladas in mole rojo arrived stuffed with plasticky bites of chicken, the mushroom soup was overwrought with salt, and lamb chops arrived gray with rugged edges. The only triumphs were fried—foods you’d find at Chili’s, like hot beef empanadas—or sweet, like the textbook chocoflan, neither of which are categories that show off what Bahena is capable of—or at least was capable of in the past.