Chickpea

Some regulars hit this casual, snazzy little Middle Eastern spot for the hummus and the baba, which are all merely fine. What’s special is the kibbeh, with its delicate layer of bulgur encasing cinnamon-dusted ground beef; the lamb pie, packed with sweet onions; and the lamb kebabs, rubbed with salt and ridiculously tender. This is food that has clearly been cared for by chef Amni Suqi (owner Jerry Suqi’s mother). In fact, if you find the matriarch on the right night, she’ll pull up a chair and explain how much she cares for it herself.