Ripasso

Anyone familiar with Terragusto, Theo Gilbert’s previous restaurant (whose two locations are now closed), will be walking down memory lane at the restaurant’s latest incarnation in Bucktown. Some of these recollections may be fond: the rich, savory onion custard called sformato; the delicate, squash-filled “pope’s hat”–shaped pasta in brown butter. To set the experience apart, stick with the beautiful housemade pastas and take advantage of the well-executed cocktails.