Chilam Balam

This brightly hued Mexican restaurant is not the least bit serious—it’s more underground dinner party than fine dining. Except you’d be hard pressed to go to a dinner party with food like this: Memelas—masa tarts—are filled with smoky black-bean puree and goat cheese; hunks of halibut make for a rustic ceviche; and hanger steak comes out with a brilliant guajillo-chili sauce. It’s food that conveys the energy of its young chef, but is executed with the craft of someone twice that age.