Argent

Bringing on notable chefs including Jackie Shen and Rodelio Aglibot seemed like an opportunity for the Dana Hotel to overcome the structural (and aesthetic) challenges of its restaurant space. The vaguely retro menu features likable dishes such as a “carpet bag steak” (soy-marinated skirt steak) with oysters Rockefeller, decadent lobster toast and a perfect roast chicken. The raw bar, which dabbles in oysters and sushi, is only slightly less enjoyable. There are misses on the menu (overly rich scallops; the desserts), and Shen’s departure from the project less than two months after its opening doesn’t bode well. Still, for a hotel that historically has gotten its restaurants wrong, Argent is a step in the right direction.