Osteria de Pizza Metro

At the original Wicker Park location, Metro has earned a good reputation for its thin, buttery, square-cut pizzas. At this "Osteria" location, which is across the street from the Landmark Century movie theater (and therefore adds a much-needed pre-movie option), the offerings have been expanded. Spinach salads with goat cheese, housemade (and not housemade) pastas, and sandwiches such as a meatball sub are part of the plan to grow up a little. But because those meatballs are gristly, and because the housemade gnocchi is rubbery, it still pays to stick to the pies.