Subway: Green, Pink to Clinton(312) 432-0500 nellcoterestaurant.com41.883953 -87.648899 833 W Randolph St (at Green St) West Loop, Chicago
Brunch (Sat, Sun), dinnerAverage small plate: $11
Jared Van Camp’s follow-up to Old Town Social is an ornate homage to European eating, drinking and debauchery. Here, Van Camp mills his own flour from local wheat. That flour goes into the restaurant’s featured items: the crust for the pizza and the dough for the pasta. And the scene isn’t the only thing that changes: its food is all over the board. At its best—spaghetti with chilies and mojama, taleggio pizza with charred ramps and smoked guanciale—thisVan Camp’s food is honest and deeply satisfying. But even when uneven execution falters, fair prices and a high-energy scene make for a great night out and frenzied service can make the place feel chaotic. One thing that thankfully always stays the same: the fair prices.