Subway: Brown, Purple (rush hrs) to Diversey(773) 868-4888 thepeasantry.com41.932064 -87.644548 2723 N Clark St (between Schubert Ave and Diversey Pkwy) Lincoln Park, Chicago
Brunch (Sat, Sun), lunch (Fri), dinnerAverage main course: $15
The food at the Peasantry is an obvious extension of the menu at its sister spot, Franks ‘N’ Dawgs (with whom it shares a chef, Joe Doren). The philosophy: Make it rustic, make it meaty and, sometimes, make it borderline excessive. A layer of whole-grain mustard tucked beneath the skin of duck legs elevates the dish into an impressive bar snack, and anyone shy about frog legs will find the tender, fried ones here as easy to like as KFC. When there are problems, it’s sometimes due to execution (over-charred burgers, say). But mostly the problem is the setup. By introducing the trappings of a traditional restaurant—wine and beer, table service, higher prices—the Peasantry invites a new set of expectations. The rustic cooking here would go down easier without them.