City Tavern

If the weather is cool, City Tavern is a worthy respite. The weathered-wood look of the place is a charming take on turn-of-the-century taverns—the kind usually pictured in the dead of winter, with a fire roaring in the corner. It’s kind of dark in here, and very loud, and the food tends to slant heavy and wintery: braised meats, root vegetable soups, pecan pie. It’s all cooked with obvious technique, but the seasonings can be off. For insurance purposes, ask for a salt shaker.