Subway: Green, Pink to Morgan(312) 888-2258 gebistro.com41.884187 -87.649057 841 W Randolph St (between Green and Peoria Sts) West Loop, Chicago
Brunch (Sat, Sun), dinnerAverage main course: $20
The trappings of Graham Elliot’s “bistro”—menus taped to old records; g.e.b.-branded beer koozies—are enough to make you wonder whether you’re here to enjoy a meal or merely consume a brand. The subpar quality of the food tips the scales toward the latter. Beets in a salad arrive undercooked, burrata shows up stiff and oozeless, mussels have their beards still firmly attached and parts of a steak are so fatty it can’t be chewed. There are some hits, such as well-executed roasted asparagus, sumptuous salmon, moist chicken and textbook beignets. But are you willing to navigate this minefield of a menu to find them?