Pecking Order

The secret ingredient at this chicken-focused restaurant is chef Kristine Subido: The more opportunity Subido has to layer flavor over flavor, the better the dish becomes. Oddly, that means the centerpiece of the menu, chicken prepared roasted, grilled or fried, is actually the most underwhelming option. Luckily, the menu is full of successes: sophisticated chicken-and-egg noodles, spicy Pinoy eggs (a take on Scotch eggs), gingery pickles, two of the best chicken sandwiches in town and—most of all—Subido’s “P.O. sauce,” a squeeze bottle of magic savoriness that elevates everything it touches.