Subway: Blue to Damen(773) 661-1540 trenchermen.com0.000000 0.000000 2039 W North Ave (between Damen and Hoyne Aves) Wicker Park, Chicago
Brunch (Sun), dinnerAverage main course: $22
What sets brothers Mike and Pat Sheerin’s long-awaited restaurant apart from the pack? Their dishes are not mere experiments; they’re proven theories of flavor, from the aged duck breast with duck and chicory sausage, braised endive, and cherry olive puree (genius) to the walleye with greens, bacon, chiles, garlic and yuzu. Their space, a restored bathhouse in Wicker Park, is a place you just want to hang out in, perhaps because the white-glazed brick wall of the bar room makes it feel a little like being in an Art Deco pool. And this is not only a dining destination but a drinking one as well, where Tona Palomino’s drinks prove, like the Sheerins’ food, to be an uncanny marriage of gumption and discretion.