Brasserie 54 by LM

LM corporate chef Brad Phillips is so busy with LM projects this year, there’s no telling if the guy is ever actually in the kitchen at the Andersonville outpost of this chain of bistros. But, really, it doesn’t matter, because Phillips’s solid handle on casual French food is exhibited in dishes such as a tall but light slice of quiche, a crisp-skinned brick chicken and creamy teurgoule (the rice pudding of Normandy). The room is kind of blah, and the service can be curt, but the affordable prices make most mishaps forgivable.