Elizabeth

Forager and self-trained chef Iliana Regan serves just three tasting menus at her ambitious first restaurant: “Owl” (rustic), “Deer” (woodland-influenced) and “Diamond” (gastronomic). These constraints, and those self-imposed by assuming the role of both chef and purveyor, are admirable, and at times Elizabeth is captivating (see the aquavit-cured salmon), at others comforting (a buttermilk biscuit with bacon fat and apple mostarda). For some, the theatrics of presentation may come off as twee and the price is admittedly limiting for most to make up their own mind, but there’s no debating this newcomer is uniquely ambitious.