Nuevo León

Since 1962, the Gutierrez family has been running this mecca of Mexican food, starting every dinner in the bright, whimsically decorated space with an unexpected amuse-bouche. Taste, but don’t fill up—there’s a lot more where that came from, like roasted chicken pieces covered in a thick, dark, intense mole, and tacos de chorizo (housemade chorizo scrambled into an egg and wrapped in one of the famous housemade tortillas). The waitresses hustling back and forth between two smoke-free rooms are cheerfully brisk but will bring anything you ask for. Except alcohol—you’ve gotta bring the mezcal yourself.