Oiistar

Long, blond wood bar; small, rectangular menu card; concise booze lineup; pork belly buns; pork-packed ramen crowned with an oozing soft-boiled egg. If this Wicker Park ramen joint were channeling New York’s Momofuku any more, Dave Chang himself might serve a cease and desist. We hope he doesn’t, because while Oiistar might never incite the mania of the hipster ramen spots before it, we appreciate it as an option for a solid bowl of noodles, great garlicky fried chicken slathered with sesame soy, tender spare ribs rolled in crunchy shallots and muddled cucumber mojitos so tasty we almost don’t mind that they’re served in stemmed mason jars.