Table, Donkey and Stick

The name is terrible and the front dining room is awkward and chilly. But don’t discard this restaurant (formerly Bonsoirée) altogether. Chef Scott Manley is no novice in the charcuterie department, as his delicate pheasant gallantine and rich duck-liver mousse attest to. And though Manley’s cooking, which is inspired by Alpine inns, is certainly rustic, the braised beef shank with caramelized kale and the polenta with a huge hunk of thick-cut bacon are nothing a hardy Chicagoan can’t appreciate.