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Breakfast sandwich at Flipside Café | Brunch breakdown

The city’s smallest brunch is big on local ingredients.

By Julia Kramer
Published: February 21, 2013

417.re.eo.bb.flipside
Biscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe
Biscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe
Biscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe
Biscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe
  • Biscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe

    Now in its third year, Will Von Hartz’s winter hideaway, Flipside Café (in the space that houses Miko’s Italian Ice in summer), still keeps the focus on doing a few things, and doing them right: coffee brewed by hand, bread baked on site, traditional soups (tomato, roasted garlic) made from scratch. This year, Alfredo Nogueira joined Von Hartz as Flipside’s chef, and though grilled cheese and soup remain the tiny shop’s signatures, Nogueira’s added renegade items like chicken potpies and a kale burger. His biggest achievement, though, might be the addition of a modest, three-item brunch menu, served on Saturdays and Sundays: a savory dish (usually a hash), one of the best French toasts in town and this deceptively simple biscuit breakfast sandwich. Not to end on a sad note, but it’s only fair to warn you: There are only ten seats and only five weeks left to claim one, because come April, the space morphs back into Miko’s Italian Ice. Flip through the slide show as we break down the components of the breakfast sandwich. 1846 N Damen Ave (773-645-9664).

    Photo: Martha Williams417.re.eo.bb.flipside1xSS.jpgBiscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe160778161
  • Biscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe

    The Biscuit
    “In high school [in New Orleans], I had a friend I used to trade my algebra homework for his breakfast biscuit sandwich,” Nogueira says. Hence, when he was discussing adding a breakfast option to the café’s compact menu, this was the first thing that came to mind. “The biscuit’s just a classic buttermilk biscuit, but it’s made fresh every morning, with good buttermilk and butter.”

    Photo: Martha Williams417.re.eo.bb.flipside2xSS.jpgBiscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe160778212
  • Biscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe

    The Scramble
    “The eggs are from Swan Creek Farm [in Michigan]. They’re soft-scrambled [in butter] with a little bit of cheese—the same cheese mix we use for our grilled cheese, which is cheddar and smoked Gouda.”

    Photo: Martha Williams417.re.eo.bb.flipside3xSS.jpgBiscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe160778263
  • Biscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe

    The Sausage
    “We get heritage pork shoulder from PQM [Publican Quality Meats], and we grind it in-house, and we make it into a fresh sausage with maple and sage.”

    Photo: Martha Williams417.re.eo.bb.flipside4xSS.jpgBiscuit sandwich at Flipside Cafe160778314

Now in its third year, Will Von Hartz’s winter hideaway, Flipside Café (in the space that houses Miko’s Italian Ice in summer), still keeps the focus on doing a few things, and doing them right: coffee brewed by hand, bread baked on site, traditional soups (tomato, roasted garlic) made from scratch. This year, Alfredo Nogueira joined Von Hartz as Flipside’s chef, and though grilled cheese and soup remain the tiny shop’s signatures, Nogueira’s added renegade items like chicken potpies and a kale burger. His biggest achievement, though, might be the addition of a modest, three-item brunch menu, served on Saturdays and Sundays: a savory dish (usually a hash), one of the best French toasts in town and this deceptively simple biscuit breakfast sandwich. Not to end on a sad note, but it’s only fair to warn you: There are only ten seats and only five weeks left to claim one, because come April, the space morphs back into Miko’s Italian Ice. Flip through the slide show as we break down the components of the breakfast sandwich. 1846 N Damen Ave (773-645-9664).

Photo: Martha Williams

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