Abiquiù Cafe

The owners of this café take their “smothered cuisine”—the spicy cuisine of New Mexico—seriously enough that they roast their own chiles. But perhaps due to an effort to make the cuisine palatable to sensitive non-Southwesterner tongues, the flavors here are notably tame. Enchiladas, tamales, chile rellenos and stuffed sopaipillas (the fried-dough specialty of New Mexico) come with a myriad of options: Chicken or pork? Spicy green chile sauce, or mild red? But while all of it is perfectly decent, it also all tends to taste the same.