Ruby’s Ribs

How could a barbecue joint that just popped up in Bridgeport boast “Since 1955” on its menu? Turns out the owners of this tiny carryout joint bought the recipes from one “Miss Ruby,” who had a similar Memphis operation since, well, 1955. We’re assuming to survive in the barbecue belt of Tennessee Ruby’s recipes were executed with smokers, but here in Chicago, the slow-baked method yields results more akin to homestyle cooking than competition ’cue. Ribs are tender and peppery while pulled pork is juicy (but a bit stringy). It turns out that roasted chicken is the star of the show, so take a cue from the Sox-loving cops stopping by for a whole bird to take home.