The Florentine

Todd Stein isn’t doing anything particularly exciting at this hotel joint. But much of that unexciting food is a thrill nonetheless thanks to perfect execution. Stein’s pork chops are a marvel for their caramelized crust and juicy interior. His housemade tagliatelle is unmatched by any other tagliatelle in the city. And his mozzarella fritti—essentially fried mozz sticks for adults—is smartly paired with delicious pickled raisins. Fumbles are not unheard of—sometimes his pasta is a little tough, and some entrées taste and look like wedding food—but the successes are good enough to make this hotel restaurant a home away from home.