Davanti Enoteca

Scott Harris’s Taylor Street spot combines elements of the Purple Pig (a menu full of schmears and charcuterie) with the Italian sensibilities of his Mia Francesca’s chain. There are a few fumbles on the menu, but mostly the dishes succeed due to their sheer decadence. Uovo in raviolo, a lone ravioli stuffed with spinach, egg and ricotta, gets a spoonful of brown butter to finish it off; thin, crispy foccacia gets filled with an addictive, soft cow’s milk cheese; and formaggio sottobosco, essentially a cheesecake parfait, tastes surprisingly sophisticated and light. (Of course, if it’s something truly light you’re going after, get the fresh heart of palm salad with crushed pink peppercorns).