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Davanti Enoteca Critics' Pick

Davanti Enoteca
41.869112 -87.661413 1359 W Taylor St (at Loomis St) Little Italy, Chicago
Subway: Blue to Racine(312) 226-5550 davantichicago.com
Brunch (Sat, Sun), lunch (Mon–Fri), dinner
Average share plate: $9
Scott Harris’s Taylor Street spot combines elements of the Purple Pig (a menu full of schmears and charcuterie) with the Italian sensibilities of his Mia Francesca’s chain. There are a few fumbles on the menu, but mostly the dishes succeed due to their sheer decadence. Uovo in raviolo, a lone ravioli stuffed with spinach, egg and ricotta, gets a spoonful of brown butter to finish it off; thin, crispy foccacia gets filled with an addictive, soft cow’s milk cheese; and formaggio sottobosco, essentially a cheesecake parfait, tastes surprisingly sophisticated and light. (Of course, if it’s something truly light you’re going after, get the fresh heart of palm salad with crushed pink peppercorns).

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