Due Lire

Entering Due Lire for the first time, it’s easy to feel reassured that the tastefully simple space, the überfriendly host (owner Massimo di Vuolo) and the housemade pastas on nearly every table will all add up to greatness. And sometimes it does: Short rib ravioli hold beautiful braised beef that’s a strong match for porcini sauce, and perfect filets are served on butter-smooth polenta. But it’s not always so perfect: Calamari can be overly breaded and overly salted, while linguine is doused in a flat and oily white wine sauce. Still, it’s hard not to hold on to Due Lire’s flashes of greatness as signs of sunnier times to come. .