Allium

Anyone who’s skeptical of whether chef Kevin Hickey can pull off serving hot dogs and bacon-onion buns at the Four Seasons has obviously never had his food. The housemade hot dog is nothing short of miraculous, and just like much of the food here—tender Wagyu skirt steak, sweet potato puree topped with crunchy kale—those buns do nothing but charm. But for everything Hickey is doing that feels soulfully Chicago, there is a milquetoast dish that could come from Any Fine-Dining Hotel Restaurant, USA. Combine that with insultingly overpriced beverages, and you have a restaurant to be conflicted about.