Bistronomic

Martial Noguier—the veteran of one sixtyblue and Café des Architectes—has gone decidedly more casual at his solo venture. Here, it’s all simple bistro foods: pâté, oxtail ravioli, roasted chicken. Most of it is prepared by the book and executed skillfully. Still, these dishes, seen hundreds of times before, leave behind a nagging déjà vu. You’ve been here before—what was it that brought you back again? It’s not the room, and not the crowd. But it may just be the delicious grilled cheese du jour.