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Grocery value: Mariano’s vs. Whole Foods
Which grocery store offers better value?
By Julia Kramer
Published: January 17, 2013
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Since the first Mariano’s hit Arlington Heights in 2010, giant sister stores have sprung up in Lakeshore East, the West Loop, Roscoe Village and Jefferson Park. The chain’s low prices meet an upscale design akin to Whole Foods. To compare prices and freshness, we shopped for the ingredients for a recipe for panfried sea bass from this season’s must-have cookbook, Yotam Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem, at the West Loop Mariano’s and the South Loop Whole Foods.
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You’ve never seen as much frozen pizza or cereal as you have at Mariano’s, but when it comes to sourcing ingredients for ethnic foods—such as harissa and rosewater—the store bombed. Whole Foods, on the other hand, had not one but three kinds of harissa!
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Mariano’s Chilean sea bass was $24.99/lb to Whole Foods’ Uruguayan sea bass at $29.99/lb—big savings, until I ate the cooked fish and was surprised how much fishier the Mariano’s product tasted. Fresh fish: definitely one of those things that’s worth paying top price for. (Plus, the Whole Foods fish guy was cuter.)
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If you only need a small amount of spices or dried fruit, Whole Foods is a godsend: I was able to shake a tablespoon or so of ground cinnamon and cumin into bags. Mariano’s has a much more limited bulk section: At first, I was impressed that it was “full service”—i.e., you tell an employee how much of each spice you want and she scoops it for you—but I’d rather have full control over how much I scoop. (Plus, for real cheapskates, the Mariano’s approach prevents you from buying amounts that barely weigh anything, as can happen with vanilla beans and bay leaves.)
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On identical products, Mariano’s undercut Whole Foods by 64 cents on Gentle Breeze honey, and by 90 cents on Colavita aged red-wine vinegar. Gentle Breeze and Colavita were the cheapest brands at Whole Foods, but Mariano’s offers house brands of honey for 85 cents less and vinegar for $1.40 less.
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Mariano’s produce section is insane—it’s gorgeous, vast and unbelievably priced. Identical onions: 59 cents/lb at Mariano’s and $1.69/lb at Whole Foods. Identical cilantro: 39 cents (sale!) at Mariano’s and $2 at Whole Foods. Definite win for Mariano’s, even though the Whole Foods’ ones were organic. (Sorry, Alice Waters.)
Since the first Mariano’s hit Arlington Heights in 2010, giant sister stores have sprung up in Lakeshore East, the West Loop, Roscoe Village and Jefferson Park. The chain’s low prices meet an upscale design akin to Whole Foods. To compare prices and freshness, we shopped for the ingredients for a recipe for panfried sea bass from this season’s must-have cookbook, Yotam Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem, at the West Loop Mariano’s and the South Loop Whole Foods.
VERDICT Mariano’s was a landslide winner in terms of total price—$9.49 cheaper, to be exact—but what use were the savings if I’d have to go to a second grocery store to buy harissa and rosewater, the two main ingredients in the recipe besides sea bass? So here’s my take: If, like me, you consider yourself on a first-name basis with Yotam, the winner is Whole Foods (or a great Middle Eastern grocery store, if you’re lucky). If you don’t know or care: Mariano’s.
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